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Getting drawings ready for your deck contractor to submit for permit approval isn’t as intimidating as it sounds. We just need clear, accurate plans that show all the key details your local council cares about—deck size, structure, materials, the works. If we nail this part, we sidestep a lot of headaches, like permit delays or rejections.
Honestly, double-checking measurements and making sure the layout matches your vision is worth the extra few minutes. If we work together, the permit process usually goes faster and feels way less stressful.
Key Takeaways
- Accurate, detailed drawings make permit approval much easier.
- Always double-check measurements and materials before you send anything in.
- Good communication with your contractor can seriously smooth things out.
Understanding Permit Requirements
When we pull together deck drawings, we start by figuring out which documents the local building office wants, what codes and zoning rules apply, and what questions to ask before we dive in. If we know what’s needed up front, it’s just easier to keep the project on track.
Key Documents Needed by Local Building Departments
We always take a look at the city or town’s website for their permit checklist. Usually, they ask for:
- Deck plans with all the measurements (top, side, and front views)
- A site plan showing property lines, your house, and where the new deck goes
- A material list—joist sizes, beam types, fasteners, that sort of thing
- Foundation details (like footing size and depth)
- Framing details (spacing, guardrails, stairs, etc.)
Sometimes they want photos of the home or drawings showing how the deck connects. All the paperwork has to be neat and easy to read, or else the permit could get held up. If they want both metric and imperial measurements, we include both—some places are picky about it.
Common Code and Zoning Considerations
Every deck has to follow the Ontario Building Code or whatever code applies in your province, plus local zoning by-laws. Here’s what usually comes up:
- Setbacks (the minimum distance from property lines)
- Maximum deck height (often under 600 mm skips the permit, over needs approval)
- Guardrail and stair rules—rails are usually required if the drop is over 600 mm
- Frost depth for footings—at least 1.2 m in Ontario so things don’t shift
We also check for easements or buried utilities, since those can mess up plans. Some municipalities want to limit how much of your backyard you can cover with a deck. If you don’t follow these rules, you might have to redo work or pay extra.
Pre-Approval Questions to Ask Your Municipality
Talking to the building department is a must. We’ll ask things like:
- “How long are permits taking right now?”
- “Do you accept digital plans, or just paper?”
- “Do you need engineered drawings for bigger or higher decks?”
- “Are there extra rules for corner lots or near water?”
- “Can we do a pre-application meeting to look at draft plans?”
We try to get these answers before we start drawing. If anything’s confusing, a quick call or visit usually clears it up and saves trouble down the line.
Essential Components of Permit Drawings
Deck drawings really do set the tone for the permit process. If we cover the right details, the building department can see what we’re building, where it sits, and that it’s safe.
Site Plan Layouts
The site plan gives a bird’s-eye view of your property, showing exactly where the new deck will go. We mark the property lines, house, and any permanent features like sheds or pools. This drawing has to show how far the deck sits from each boundary.
We add measurements like the deck’s width and length, plus the distance from the house. If there are septic tanks or utility lines nearby, we note those too. Here’s what we always include:
- Property lines and measurements
- Location of house and deck
- Distances from deck to property lines
- Other structures (sheds, pools, fences)
- North arrow
- Notes about special conditions (trees, slopes, easements)
A clear site plan helps dodge zoning or setback issues.
Elevations and Cross Sections
Elevations show the side view—height of the deck, stairs, railing. Cross sections are like a slice through the deck so the inspector can see how we’re putting it together.
We draw in the finished deck height, railing height and style, and the number and rise of steps for the stairs. These also show the size of the lumber, joist spacing, and beam placement.
These views let the building department check if everything’s up to code. We label the important stuff, so there’s no confusion about how it all fits.
Foundation and Footing Details
Here’s where we explain how the deck is supported underground. We show the size, depth, and spacing of footings—the concrete bases under each post. In Canada, digging below the frost line is a must so the deck doesn’t move in winter.
We include:
- Depth and diameter of each footing
- Type of footing (concrete tube, pad, etc.)
- Distance between footings
- Size and material of posts anchored to footings
A quick table helps keep things tidy:
| Footing Location | Footing Size | Depth Below Grade |
|---|---|---|
| Corner (4×4 post) | 10″ diameter | 48″ |
| Mid-span | 12″ diameter | 48″ |
Nailing these details means the inspector knows the deck will be solid and safe.
Required Dimensions and Measurements
Accurate measurements are non-negotiable if we want a smooth permit process. Here’s what we always include to keep things on track.
Deck Size and Placement
We show the length and width of the deck, in feet and inches. These numbers should match what you plan to build and show exactly how far the deck sticks out from the house. If there are area limits, we note the total square footage.
We also mark distances from property lines, fences, and other structures. Most cities won’t let decks get too close to the edge of your lot. We note how far the deck is from doors, windows, and any steps or landings.
A simple diagram with these labels—and clear, straight lines—makes things easier. Tables help too:
| Measurement | Distance |
|---|---|
| Deck length | ___ feet, ___ inches |
| Deck width | ___ feet, ___ inches |
| Distance to fence | ___ feet, ___ inches |
| Distance to house | ___ feet, ___ inches |
Beam, Joist, and Post Spacing
We have to measure beams, joists, and posts carefully. For these, we include both their locations and spacing. Joists are usually 16 inches on center, but sometimes 12 or 24 inches, depending on the material. We write these right on the plan.
Beams go below the joists and support them. We show the exact spacing between beams and the distance from the edge of the deck to the first and last beam. Where posts support the beams, we note their spacing—usually 6 to 8 feet apart, but it depends on the deck load.
A side view (elevation drawing) helps inspectors see how everything lines up. We label the size of each piece of wood (like 2×10 joists or 6×6 posts) since that affects strength. If you’re unsure, let’s check the building code or ask your supplier—nobody wants a deck that feels wobbly!
Materials and Construction Specifications
Picking the right materials and fasteners matters for safety and longevity. Guardrails and stairs have to follow the rules, too. Paying attention to these details can help avoid permit delays.
Lumber and Fastener Details
Most decks use pressure-treated lumber for framing because it stands up to rot and bugs. Some folks go for cedar or composite decking—they look nice and need less upkeep. We label the deck boards, beams, and joists on the drawings with their size, spacing, and grade. A typical note: “2×8 SPF joists at 16” on center.”
All structural connectors (joist hangers, post bases, lag bolts) should be galvanized or stainless steel to prevent rust. Every fastener type and placement should be easy to find in the drawing notes. Here’s a sample table:
| Part | Material | Size/Spacing |
|---|---|---|
| Decking | 5/4×6 cedar | Perpendicular, 1/8″ gap |
| Joists | 2×8 pressure-treated | 16” o.c. |
| Beams | 2×10 PT, double | As shown on plan |
| Fasteners | Galvanized screws | Per supplier specs |
Guardrails and Stairs Specifications
Guardrails need to meet local code—usually at least 900 mm (36”) high for decks under 1.8 m, and 1,070 mm (42”) for taller ones. Baluster spacing can’t be more than 100 mm (4”) to keep little kids safe. We include these measurements right in the drawings.
Stairs should have at least 235 mm (9¼”) treads and no more than 200 mm (7⅞”) risers. We mark the number of steps, the rise and run, and show handrail details. Handrails should be between 865-965 mm (34-38”) above the tread nosing. Stairs with more than three risers need guardrails on open sides.
A side-view diagram for stairs and guardrails, with all the sizes called out, helps avoid confusion and keeps the permit moving.
Drafting Tips for Accurate Deck Drawings
Getting deck drawings right from the start saves time and hassle. Picking the right method and using clear measurements makes it easier for everyone to follow along.
Choosing Hand-Drawn vs Digital Plans
We can go old school or digital. Hand-drawn plans are fine for simple decks and don’t need any fancy software—just a ruler, graph paper, pencil, and maybe a good eraser. If the lines are neat, city hall usually won’t complain.
Digital plans have their perks. With free or paid software, we can tweak things quickly, share files, and print clean copies. Digital is great for bigger or trickier decks where precision counts. If you’re comfortable on a computer, digital plans look sharp and professional.
Honestly, as long as the drawings are clear, either works. If you’re on the fence, digital is usually safer, but don’t sweat it if a tidy hand-drawn plan gets the job done.
Using Scale and Labelling Properly
We always draw our decks to scale so the permit office can see the exact size and spot. A common scale is 1:50, where 2 cm on paper equals 1 m in real life. We write the scale clearly on every page—no guesswork. If we skip the scale, measurements go off and permits might get stuck.
Labelling matters just as much. We need to point out where posts, joists, stairs, railings, and footings go. Using bold text or underlining stuff like “Deck edge” or “Existing house wall” helps things stand out. A simple legend for any symbols is handy, too.
A solid drawing has measurements for everything: lengths, widths, heights, and distances from property lines. Arrows and clear numbers keep things easy for the inspector. If we’re not sure, we toss in another label—better too much info than not enough.
Reviewing and Finalising Your Permit Drawings
Getting our drawings right before sending them off for a permit saves us a lot of grief.
Double-Checking for Accuracy
We go over every part of our drawings. Measurements, the deck’s layout, and details like beam sizes, joist spacing, and posts all need to match what we’re actually planning to build.
It’s smart to compare the drawings with the material list. If the drawing says 12-foot joists but the list says 10, something’s off. We also make sure all views are labelled and the scale’s easy to spot.
We check the code notes, too. Railing heights, stair details, and footings must line up with local by-laws. Double-checking addresses and property lines is worth it. Getting neighbour info right for set-back details can save us a paperwork headache.
Common Mistakes That Cause Permit Delays
Errors in drawings slow everything down. A few slip-ups pop up again and again:
- Missing Important Details: If we forget to show guardrail heights, footing sizes, or how the ledger attaches, our documents come back for tweaks.
- Inaccurate Measurements: Even being off by a couple of centimetres can lead to issues or questions from the city.
- Forgetting Local Code Requirements: Skipping unique local rules—like setbacks, max deck heights, or privacy screens—gets plans rejected.
Let’s skip messy, handwritten changes on our drawings. Cities want plans that are clear and easy to read. Using up-to-date templates and double-checking with the city’s deck guide is the way to go. That gives us a better shot at quick approval and fewer headaches.
Communicating with Your Deck Contractor
Good communication keeps your deck project on track. If we’re not in sync, delays or confusion with the permit process can creep in.
Start by sharing your ideas with us. Photos, sketches, or even rough drawings help a ton. The more details you give, the more accurate the drawings will be.
Handy info to share:
- Your preferred deck size and shape
- The materials you’d like
- Any special features (stairs, railings, etc.)
- Where you want doors or other access points
If you’re unsure about anything, just ask. We’re here to walk you through it. No question’s too small.
Regular updates help us catch issues early. Email, phone, or in-person—whatever works best for you.
If the city wants changes, we’ll go through them together and adjust. It’s a team thing, and your input matters.
A quick checklist:
| Task | Who Handles It |
|---|---|
| Provide sketches | You |
| Draft permit drawings | Us |
| Submit for approval | Us |
| Approve revisions | You & Us |
Let’s keep it simple and open. Makes the whole thing smoother, and honestly, a bit less stressful for everyone.
Submitting Your Drawings for Permit Approval
When the drawings are ready, it’s time to send them to the local permitting office. Most cities let us submit online or in person, but it’s worth double-checking how things work where you live.
Before we hit submit, here’s a quick checklist:
- All measurements are clear and labelled
- Materials are listed
- Supporting documents attached (like a property survey, if needed)
- Contact info is current
Some places want a specific permit form filled out. Others might ask for extra details, like deck height or railing specs. We always check their website or make a quick call so nothing gets missed.
If we’re dropping off drawings in person, usually two physical copies does the trick. Online submissions need PDFs. It’s smart to check the file sizes and formats ahead of time.
Here’s what the permit submission usually looks like:
| Step | What We Do |
|---|---|
| 1. Prepare Docs | Double-check all drawings and applications |
| 2. Submit | Drop-off in person or upload online |
| 3. Confirm | Get a receipt or email confirmation from the city staff |
| 4. Wait | City reviews, contacts us if changes are needed |
The review can take a few days or stretch into a couple weeks. No need to stress—we’ll keep you in the loop as soon as we hear anything. Sometimes the city asks for tweaks, and we handle those quickly to keep things moving.
What Happens After Submission
Once we hand off the deck drawings to the city, the permit office does its thing. They check our plans to make sure everything lines up with local building codes and safety rules.
The wait can be anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, depending on how busy the office is and how tricky the project looks.
The city might ask for more details or small changes. If that happens, we update the drawings and send them back in. Sometimes we get emails or letters from the permit office asking for clarification.
Here’s what usually happens after submission:
| Step | What Happens |
|---|---|
| Submission | Our drawings are sent to the city |
| Review | The city checks for code compliance |
| Request for Changes | We may need to fix small issues |
| Approval or Rejection | We get a permit or reasons for denial |
Once the permit’s approved, we’re good to build. If it’s denied, we read the feedback, make the changes, and try again.
Waiting isn’t fun, but it’s just part of building in Canada. Grab a coffee—we’ll keep you posted on any news from the city.
Frequently Asked Questions
Getting a deck permit in Ontario means our drawings need to be detailed, accurate, and follow the building code. Here are the questions we hear most often when folks are putting together deck plans.
What are the essential elements to include in deck plan submissions for a building permit?
We always include a clear site plan that shows property lines and where the deck will sit. Detailed deck drawings have measurements, framing details, footing locations, beam and joist sizes, stair details, and guardrail info.
Material specs and notes about the deck’s height above grade are needed. If the deck connects to the house, we add connection details.
Could you walk me through the steps to create accurate deck plans by myself?
First, measure the space and sketch a top view showing the deck’s outline, property lines, and nearby structures. Then, draw the framing plan with joist direction, spacing, and support posts.
Add elevation views and cross-sections for things like railing height and stairs. List all materials and add notes explaining how the deck will be built.
How does one ensure that deck plans comply with Ontario’s building code?
We look over the Ontario Building Code (OBC), especially the parts on footings, guards, stairs, and handrails. Double-check joist and beam sizing charts in the OBC to be sure all parts meet the minimums.
If we’re not sure, we check with the local building department or work with a pro designer—no sense risking surprises later.
What common mistakes should I avoid when drafting deck plans for permit approval?
Leaving out measurements or forgetting a site plan showing the deck’s spot on the property is a big one. Sometimes people skip details for stairs or railings, slowing things down.
Using the wrong lumber size or missing structural info also causes delays. We stick to code and skip the guesswork.
Is there a deck size that doesn’t require a permit, or will all decks need one in Ontario?
Almost all decks attached to a house or over 24 inches (about 60 cm) above the ground need a permit in Ontario. Small, ground-level platforms not attached and under that height might not need one. We always check with the local municipal office to be sure.
In the event of a non-permitted deck build, what are the potential consequences I might face?
If you build without a permit, you could get hit with fines, be told to tear the whole thing down, or have to spend a lot fixing things later. Trying to sell your home? Non-permitted work can turn that into a big headache.
Honestly, grabbing the permit first usually saves time, money, and a bunch of stress. Who doesn’t want to avoid that mess?